Venice, the “Serenissima,” is world-renowned for its canals, historic palaces, and labyrinthine alleys. Yet, hidden behind high walls and iron gates lies a less-known, equally fascinating dimension of the city: its secret gardens. These green havens offer a startling contrast to the bustling energy of the calli and campi, providing tranquil oases where history and nature intertwine. Far from the typical tourist routes, exploring these gardens reveals a serene, lush side of the lagoon city, a true breath of fresh air amidst the stone and water.
For centuries, the lack of space has made greenery a precious commodity in Venice. Noble families and religious orders meticulously cultivated every available patch of land, creating intimate courtyards, vegetable patches, and magnificent formal gardens. Today, while many remain private, a surprising number of these historic and contemporary gardens are accessible, offering visitors a unique perspective on Venetian life and a well-deserved moment of peace. From grand, manicured landscapes to quiet, contemplative churchyards, the pursuit of Venice gardens is a journey into the city’s soul.
Gardens of the Biennale: Art and Nature
For those interested in the intersection of culture and nature, the Gardens of the Biennale (Giardini della Biennale) are a must-see. Located in the Castello district, they are one of the most significant open spaces in the eastern part of the city. These public gardens are famous globally as the historic setting for the International Art Exhibition and the Venice Architecture Biennale.
The area was laid out in the early 19th century under Napoleon’s decree, transforming an older marshy area and part of the Sant’Antonio island. The gardens feature a vast green area interspersed with historic pavilions, each representing a different country. Walking through the Giardini, you’re not just observing nature; you’re surrounded by decades of art history. The contrast between the natural landscape, the sculptural architecture of the pavilions, and the temporary art installations makes the gardens a dynamic and intellectually stimulating place. Even when the exhibitions aren’t running, they remain a beautiful example of public gardens, perfect for a relaxing stroll with views of the lagoon.
Papadopoli Gardens: A Green Oasis
Closer to the city center and the railway station, the Papadopoli Gardens (Giardini Papadopoli) provide another important example of Venice public gardens. Named after the Papadopoli family, who once owned the surrounding palazzo, these gardens are easily accessible and a welcome retreat after arriving in or before leaving the city.
Originally designed in the 19th century as a private romantic park, the gardens were later reduced in size for the construction of the Piazzale Roma vehicle terminal. Despite the change, they retain an elegant, airy atmosphere, featuring mature trees, winding paths, and a tranquil fountain. They serve as a vital green lung for the surrounding area, offering local residents and weary travelers a place to sit, rest, and enjoy a moment of quiet reflection away from the main thoroughfare. The thoughtful landscaping and mature vegetation make them a quintessential stop on a tour of Venice gardens.
Fondazione Cini: a cultural experience immersed in greenery
For those seeking an experience that combines culture, history, and a total immersion in greenery, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore, with its Giorgio Cini Foundation, is an unmissable stop. Although they are not “Venice public gardens” in the strict sense, its green spaces, and in particular the famous adjacent giardini san giorgio, offer a unique and refined experience. The Cini Foundation, created to restore and enhance the monumental complex of the former Benedictine monastery, is a cultural hub of international renown. Its meticulously maintained gardens offer an unparalleled view of the lagoon and St. Mark’s Basin. The true jewel, however, is the Borges Labyrinth.
The Borges Labyrinth: a garden of forking paths
In 2011, the Giorgio Cini Foundation created this labyrinth dedicated to me, Jorge Luis Borges, an Argentine writer and poet, who had loved Venice so much… The person who wanted this labyrinth was my second wife, Maria Kodama, with whom I had shared the discovery of ever-different and unique sounds, idioms, twilight hours, cities, gardens, and people. Maria knew my love for Venice, a unique labyrinth city of subtle and marvelous complexity. After having created a first version of the labyrinth in 2003 near San Rafael in Argentina, the Fundación Internacional Jorge Luis Borges, María Kodama, and the Giorgio Cini Foundation, decided to reconstruct the labyrinth in Venice, once again entrusting the project to Randoll Coate, an English architect whom I had met many years earlier in Argentina. Covering approximately 2,300 square meters and composed of more than 3,000 boxwood plants about 90 centimeters high, the labyrinth is inspired by the short story The Garden of Forking Paths and presents itself as an open book, scattered with symbols present in my works: a cane, mirrors, two hourglasses, sand, a huge question mark, the tiger, the name Jorge Luis, and the initials of Maria Kodama. Furthermore, the hedges are arranged to spell out the name “Borges” as if ideally written on the pages of this great book.
The discovery of “Venice gardens” is a journey into unexpected beauty, an immersion in an oasis of peace that enriches the experience of the lagoon city, demonstrating that even in the densest urban fabric, nature and tranquility can find their space. Whether it is the lavish Venice Biennale gardens, the relaxing Venice public gardens, or the poetic Borges Labyrinth, every green corner is an invitation to slow down and enjoy the serenity of Venice.